The Amalfi Coast - where dreams of sun soaked beaches beneath clifftop towns come to fruition. It takes a considerable amount of time to traverse the winding roads so we spent two days along the coast, interspersed with staying at a campsite in Sorrento, which is to the west of the coast.
We may have eaten scazzetta in Salerno not long before, but we had heard of a great bakery in the tiny village of Minori.
We then attempted to stay at a campground up the hill from Minori, but once we got around the problem of common languages, we were told that it would cost €60. I seriously thought he was joking for several seconds and even almost laughed. I think it was a kind of organic agritourismo camping. That's when we drove as fast as we could to Sorrento for the night as we needed someplace to sleep and we knew that there were two decently priced campings there, passing gorgeous twilight vistas that we unfortunately had no time to jump out and photograph.
The next day we approached the hilltop Ravello, which probably has excellent views of he surrounds but it costs €5 to park for one hour! So we left. We can get great views elsewhere, thank you. (You may be seeing now that the Amalfi Coast ain't cheap. So how rich do you have to be to visit the riviera?)
We parked by the waterfront in the eponymous town of Amalfi and walked up the central Via delle Cartiere for lunch. Once you got past the piazza del duomo and surrounds, there was hardly anyone around!
On the way up we saw a strange little town made from cinder blocks and children's figurines, giving the feeling of a little fairy community.
Right outside the restaurant was this dope car. I can see the Beach Boys riding around in it having somehow squeezed all their surfboards in.
At Trattoria il Mulino, we supped on pizza and house wine. The fare was tasty, unpretentious, and reasonably priced. (This post could be confused for a food blog, but I have to eat! I can help it that Italy has amazing food. But you know this isn't a food blog because I tucked straight in and forgot to take any photos of the food. This happens a lot.)
The beauty of the duomo and the waterfront hides a tragic past: in 1343 a catastrophic earthquake caused most of the town and its residents to plunge to the bottom of the sea.
I only mention Furore as it was the nearest village to an awesome beach we scoped out! Unfortunately we ran out of time to visit it, but it was tucked away in an alcove in the cliff and you could only see it when you were driving across the bridge in a western direction (if you were on the other side of the road then you couldn't see down to the beach below). If you're going to the Amalfi Coast, try to find it!
Also a beautiful town from afar, Positano provided some of the most stunning views - the title post is a sunset snapped as we had just driven past the town.
It was also the scene of a bourgeoning forest fire that caused huge delays in traffic. As the road is so narrow, emergency services had to strictly control the flow of vehicles and it was quite a while before we were able to return to our camping in Sorrento. As we were directed past at one point in the road, we saw the shell of a burnt out car and wondered if that was what caused the flames that spread to foliage. Sparks carried on the wind and several different patches of trees were glowing hot and throwing off plumes of smoke. It was very dramatic, and hopefully it was extinguished quickly.
All in all, the Coast is a series of postcard-perfect views interspaced with touristy beaches and brilliant pasticcerias. Save up your euros visiting a wonderfully inexpensive place like Croatia (and choose accommodation in Sorrento as it is vastly cheaper), and then live in the lap of luxury for a couple of days on the Amalfi Coast.