Korčula, day one: Hello Paradise My Old Friend

Crossing the Bosnia-Herzegovina border back into Croatia was like coming home. There were so many things to love! The roads were well maintained, the scenery was killer and we could see the coastline again (we knew in our hearts that the water would be crystal clear even if we couldn't see it in the dimming light). I may have had a small breakdown due to how nice Croatia is, and there may have been one tear shed. 

As a welcome back present, we were treated to this gorgeous sunset on the way to Orebić along the Pelješac peninsula - pink and orange all the way across the sky!

We slumbered in a cozy apartment and took the ferry across to the island of Korčula the next day. 

Korčula town, Croatia (Korčula, Hrvatska)

The Orebić-Korčula ferry crossing takes only fifteen minutes, so I didn't have time for my customary boat nap. Instead I gazed down at the blue water and the seafloor beyond. I knew it! Clear water! It's so beautiful...sob.

While the centre of Korčula town itself was scarce on parking, we drove around to the hill behind where there was parking in abundance along the side of the road, and it was even shaded by trees.  

Taking a leisurely stroll down a residential path to the town, we spotted a little white cat hanging out by an abandoned building. 

Entering the stari grad, we were initially struck by how touristy Korčula was, but then we found that it was the coastal road and the area between the entrance gate and the cathedral that were frequented, while any street not on the direct tourist route was quiet and pleasant. 

From a plaque down this street I learned that Marko Andrijic, a celebrated Croat architect and sculptor, was elected by the townspeople to be head architect in designing all the public buildings of the town in 1485. Fun fact: that was quite a long time ago. 

One of the remaining guard towers had been converted into a bar where the Massimo staff members winch your drink up to you on the roof. It may have been too early for a drink, as when we arrived the barkeep said we could just go up and have a look around. There was nobody there, and while it would have been nice to sip at a wine while admiring the view, it was also great that we were allowed up without having to pay. As could be expected, the water was blue and clear as glass when you looked down from the top. Snorkelling, anyone? Best to do that before the cocktail methinks. 

An odd belief that Korčulans seem to hold is that Marco Polo was born on their island and not in Venice as the rest of the world thinks. Their theory is mainly based on the fact that Korčula was part of the Venetian Empire during Polo's time and that his father was a merchant from Dalmatia (upon moving to Venice he changed his surname from Pilic to the Italianicised Polo - both meaning 'chicken'). Apparently because it's not confirmed where the famous explorer was born, it could be Korčula, and this is the basis of the myth. Croatians have backed it so much that one of the former presidents opened a new Marco Polo museum in China, leaving Italians outraged. You can't help but laugh at all the hotels and shops named after him. 

Ahungered from all our wandering, we went driving in search of a picnic spot. Traversing craggy hills, we popped out by the coast where the sea looked freakishly blue. I'm serious, it looked unnatural. Yannick said that someone had been messing with the saturation settings in Photoshop, and that is exactly what it appeared had happened! If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I never would have fallen for it. I might have had another mini-breakdown. It was too good to be true! We eventually found ourselves at Vaja Beach down a gravel track where the stones were white as snow. A nearby Englishman kept telling anyone who would listen about the UV rays that bounce off the stones as a hint to apply more sunscreen than usual, and that he didn't normally wear aqua shoes but where sea urchins are rife it's a good idea. We enjoyed the beach thoroughly through swimming, sunbathing, and JUST LOOK AT IT WILL YOU? JUST LOOK AT IT. I want to learn Croatian so I can live there. We saw lots of little fish in the water, and even some strange ones that looked like teensy swordfish. Two negatives we encountered were that we were attacked by mosquitos on our visit, which I've never experienced on a beach before, and sadly there was a huge pile of rubbish heaped up beside the cliff. 

As the afternoon turned into evening we left to find our apartment in a village called Zavalatica. We not only had two terraces, but also a gas stove which we roasted marshmallows upon and combined with Domaćica biscuits to form pseudo s'mores. 

The wifi didnt work properly, but do you need it if you have s'mores and this view? It's like a damn fairytale! It was the best day ever. 

Today's post was almost called: Waiter, Winch Me Up a Cocktail - I'm on Top of the World!